June 21, 2009 Feakle, Ireland
Time: 4.00 PM or 16.00
(writing while watching a hurling game)
On June 17th, the Team Texas Cyclists biked around the Burren which is a rocky,limestone filled countryside. The Burren has been occupied since ancient times. The settlers left their mark with the tombs with faced the rising sn in the east.
Dad started off as the navigator and, of course, we got lost. However, a kind Irishman ointed us in the right direction to go to the Corkscrew hill which we thankfully went down instead of up. The Corkscrew hill had switchbacks and at the top we had a wonderful view of the limestone hills.
WE raced down the hill to Ballyvaughan. There, in the small tourist town, we stopped for a quick, light lunch. As we were shopping for suitable souvenirs for family and others, the wind started to pick up, giving us a chill.
After several pots of warm tea and crispy apples, we began the climb back to the hostel in Corrofin. The road back to Corrofin was surrounded by eroding limestone. The limestone had some holes and depressions that were ideal for plants to grow in because the limestone heated and protected the flower from the elements. This unique relationship between stone and plant allows for a variety of flowers to flourish including species from the Mediteareen.
On the road back, we visted an ancient tomb left behind by the early settlers. Of course, the site was made old people friendly.
The way back was fairly windy. So, not enjoyable. Though being on a bike most of the week isn’t enjoyable anyways.
Funny story alert. Dad needed a atm before we arrived in Corrofin the day before. So we traveled to Corrofin expecting a ATM provided by the information given to us at the previous town. No ATM at Corrofin. The people there told us there was an ATM at Ballyvaughan. This town was on our routethe next day so we decided to stop there. No ATM there either. The peoplethere told us there was an ATM at Kinlley or something like that which was 10-20 km away. By this time, we were suspicious of the information provided. Dad decided to go Ennis which was 15 km or so south of Corrofin. Finally found an ATM. Funny thing is Dad warned us that we would travel to such rural towns in Ireland we wouldn’t find an ATM. Dad did not heed his own warning.
Cribbage: I won 4 times in a row against Alicia. haHAHHAHa.
Date: 18 June 2009 (writing on the 20 June)
Location: Corofin to Galway
Event of the day: getting to Galway
Accommodation: Sleepzone Tourist Hostel
Cribbage: ahead of Dad, Lauren 3 up on me
Yes, getting to Galway was the main adventure. Our bike from Corofin to Kinvarra was nice with a few bonus views of the Burren. Lauren for a great little café in Kinvarra (The Pizza Café), where sandwiches were more than just ham & cheddar—I had peppers and sun-dried tomatoes on mine!
However, after Kinvarra was the stressful, tense riding. We rode on a national secondary road (green and white) to Kilcolgan where we joined a national primary roads. I strongly prefer to stay off the national primary roads (green, but usually do have wide shoulders) and the secondary roads if possible (secondary not as bad). The shoulders on the primary roads are sometimes ridden with potholes, one of which I hit, causing a flat (my third).
Traffic only gets worse closer to Galway. We were headed straight for the Sleepzone (slightly outside city center), until Lauren redirected Dad for the city centre and then missed the subsequent turn. That left us under a bridge during a short rain shower and time to replace the replacement tire that had a bad patch.
Sleepzone is an industrial sized hostel: hundreds of beds (most rooms en suite) and a large, loud common area/kitchen with WiFi and free tea/coffee. (Note: I haven’t had coffee since Houston airport.)
We opted to go out for dinner and not fight the Sleepzone crowd for kitchen space. Through Eyre Square (now officially renamed John F. Kennedy Park—they were real excited about a Irish-American president) and into the pedestrian zone lead us the Finnegan’s Food Kitchen for a average meal. We should have opted for Couch Potatas down the street (recommended by Moon guide book).
Didn’t sleep well—pillow was too lean and room too hot. And (!) shower was water conserving—you had to push button for one minute of shower and again for another minute and again…..
Day 17 – 19th of June
Today is a nonbiking day, we are renting a car driving up into the Connemara to see the sights. The night before we scouted out the location of the city centre Budget office so we would not be hunting around for it early Friday morning. The agreed upon leaving time frm the Hostel was 7:45 and Alicia was notdownstairs os Laureen and I headed off without her. We arrived early at the Budget office so we crossed the street to wait in Eyre Square. Five minutes later Alicia comes walking up to the bdget office and is momentarily perplexed seeing no Lauren or dad. I watch her from the square for a few moments before calling out to herr that we are across the street. We signed the papers, got the keys and then started to 2+ block walk to the car park to get the car. As per our usual habit there are the missteps. Lauren becomes irritated with these missteps and starts to express her irritation. Finally we get to the correct level with the car and I start looking for a Skoda since that is what is on the envelope given to me by the office manager. In reality I was given two envelopes – one containing the car park ticket with Skoda on it and the other containing the rental agreement with Toyota Auris on it. The key does not work on the Skoda, I am baffled when Alica suggests jjust hitting the lock button to see what ca lights up. voila the Auris flashes its headlight so we load up in it and I start ot orientate myself to the new car, driving on the right and shifting with my left hand. At the eexit the gate will not open, Lauren says insert the ticket, I don’t havethe ticket since I gave to the parking personnel. The car is too close to the wall for AC to exit, confusion reigns, voices raise, tempers momentarily flare and finally; we are off with Alicia navigating. She choses a different then the one I had intended, more irritated but she does a good job getting us of town though it involves more turning (especially right hand turns across traffic which I was trying to advoid till I am more fully comfortable in driving the car on ithe right.
Stop one – groceries at a SuperValu in Movaan –really a burrg of Galway.
Stop two – Oughterard - Aughnanure Tower House. I see the brown sign indicating the site so I made the turn and head down the increasingly narrowing road. EEventually it becomes a single lane and there is a red car traveling right behind me impatiently. I pull into the lot and so the red car and the driver quickly pops put and announces to another woman waiting in the lot Sorry I am late. Unspoken translation: I was stuck behind these damn slow moving without a care in the world tourist. We spend about an hour wisitingthe site – neat features and go explanatory signs, even a secret room.
Stop three. The scenery is changing from lakes in flatlands to lakes in mountains but the girls are asleep. The twisting bumpy road and my driving style has a narcoleptic effect on passengers.
Stop 4 – Clifden- AC checks out the IT office, nothingto see so we proceed.
stop 5 – Connemara National Park. We visit the center and then take a 3 km walk on the Bog Trail.
Stop 6 – The falls of disappointment
Stop 7 – Kylemore House. Nice parking lot, too pricey to visit so we drive on.
Stop 8 – Photo op of the Kylemore House across the lake. Tres difficle turning around.
More sleeping while I drive so I am listening to Irish talk radio – program about pedophiles, actual and mis-accussed cases and the impact on the families.
stop 9 – Cong Abbey
Stop 10 – Ross Friary
Stop 11 – Haynes Car Park
Stop 12 – Dunnes food Market for dinner eats
Stop 13 Sleepzone Hostel and dinner and cribbage battles.
Date: 20 June 2009 (writing on the 21 June)
Location: Galway to Gort (which Dad pronounces Quart, which gets confused with Cork)
Event of the day: Saturday Galway City
Accommodation: Sullivan’s Royal Hotel
Cribbage: ahead of Dad, Lauren 3 up on me
A main reason to come to Galway was to see the Saturday market. Smaller than I expected but still interesting. Vegetable stand, a fresh fish stand (fish gutted while you wait!), pastry/bakery stands (some gluten-free), crêperie stand, an olive assortment stand, woven bags, jewelry, prints, mosaic mirrors, wooden spoons, bagel and pretzel stand, clothing stand, cheese stand,….not just a farmer’s market. Even with all the options, lunch was a ham&cheese roll and scones.
Galway cathedral and city museum not enticingly interesting, but the Corrib walk along the river was nice.
General European downtown Saturday city life is more interesting than College Station (of course). We saw several street still-life performers, and sand artist (makes a lying dog out of the sand), several music performers. For restaurants not on the main pedestrian drag, it was common to hire someone to hold a sign for advertisement (joked that that would be a good job for Lauren).
Getting out of Galway was as tense/difficult as getting in. Dad and Lauren have taken to arguing with each other when directions go bad. At two different traffic circles, the same series of events: at busy traffic circle, Dad takes first opportunity to go, Lauren and I miss opportunity and must stop; Lauren then curses Dad’s “bad decision” and then tries to go without looking and blocks car (that had right of way) trying to exit traffic circle; Alicia waits a long time to safely go into traffic circle and is a ways behind arguing father and daughter. Sign that trip is getting a bit too long in duration—good thing we only have 4 more days. I would like to change my plane seats so as not to sit next to Lauren or Dad, or at least not both of them.
Finally arrived in Gort. As it’s a working town, not many B&Bs in sight, had to stay at Sullivan’s Royal Hotel, 90€ for room & breakfast.
We again mistook the lunch menu for the dinner menu and ended up facing higher prices than expected at dinner (at Ambiance in Gort). Were also charged for water (!!).
Outside of several grocery types stores are a plastic cone with ice cream to indicate that there’s soft-served ice cream available inside. One such brand is Angelito, marketed as “freshly whipped ice cream”. My curiosity was finally satisfied. The Angelito “freshly whipped ice cream” is comparable to Dairy Queen’s cone—very sweet, light, with a creamy taste.
Sullivan’s is very nice for the extra €€€ we’re (umm…Dad) paying. A big room with a big bathroom, a towel and soap bar each provided, tea provided (with digestives!), a tv, comfy comfy beds, and (most importantly) breakfast. We used the towels (usually a 1€ charge per towel at hostels, and Dad opts for only one or two towels meaning we have to share), we watched Spain vs South Africa for the world cup qualifier (Spain won 2-0, but South Africa still qualifies for World Cup—important since they will be the host country), we drank the tea and ate the digestives, and we slept very well in the beds. Breakfast was the best yet: sconces, tea, toast, cereal, oatmeal, grilled mushrooms, potatoes…much more complete than our average cereal breakfasts.
On to Feacle/Feakle and (part of) the Lough Derg.
Alicia’s things to do on arriving home:
1. Drop off Dad (no more Dad!)
2. Shower & shave (no more body odor!)
3. Clip nails (no more long nails!)
4. Have Mom do laundry (no more stinky clothes!)
5. Eat dinner
6. Arrange photos
7. Get ready for Korea (7 days till departure): Hangul, cloth shopping, etc.
Translation notes: craic means fun, dual carriageway means two lanes, digestive is a shortbread or graham cracker meant to accompany tea
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
a lot of general inforation
Date: 16 June 2009, writing for yesterday
Location: Doolin to Corofin
Event of the Day: no ATM
Accomadation: Corofin Village Hostel
Cribbage: even w/Lauren, still way ahead of Dad (but he almost skunked Lauren and I in 3-hand cribbage)
A very “uhh” day—not much excitement. We had a very short bike from Doolin to Lisdovarna (5km), Lisdovarna to Kilforna (8km), and Kilforna to Corofin (13km). Somewhat hilly. More tiring than biking was seeing the Burren Centre exhibit and film. No sights of the real Burren yet.
Reme,ber Dad telling us we’d go to an Ireland so rural that they wouldn’t have ATMs? So forget internet? Well, we do have a wireless connection here at the hostel. But there isn’t an ATM. And Dad’s low on cash. The nearest ATM is in Ennis or maybe, maybe Ballybunnion.
Another day without rain while biking. Success. (Rained a lot after arriving and all night. Bits of sympathy for the campers outside…).
Concerning…
Irish traffic: Overall, drivers have been generally courteous about being patient and giving us space when passing. I still think someone’s going to get hit. I have gotten used to biking on the left side. We are debating the origins of driving on the left/right hand sides of the road.
Irish roads: Like I mentioned earlier, roads that aren’t city, regional, or national roads aren’t numbered or marked. Makes navigating rather difficult (especially for Dad). These roads also tend to be steeper than the regional and national roads.
Irish traffic circles: Ireland has started using “mini” traffic circles at what is just an irregular intersection (usually can ride through). These traffic circles however, contrary to convention, are just painted circles in the road. I don’t like this; the government skimping out on decorating.
Irish road signs: The road signs are generally clear and intuitive, but what I find peculiar is the written instructions on the road. When approaching a sharp bend or junction, in elongated text, is the word “SLOW”. If it’s a really sharp bend or dangerous junction, then “SLOWER” or “VERY SLOW” appears. Sometimes all three. There are also “Dangerous Accident Blackspot” areas.
Irish castles: Ireland has a lot of castles leftover. We see partial remnants all over the place. The best tour so far has been the partial castle in Listowel—very informative. For example, a threshold was a ledge in the doorway to “hold” the hay (“thresh”) that was in the room for soldiers to sleep on. Clockwise wrapped stairs were advantageous because the soldier coming down could easily use his sword in his right hand whereas the invading enemy coming up was forced to use his left hand. I didn’t realize how many castles in Ireland there were till I saw a poster of about 20-30 intact castles here at the Corofin Village Hostel. Lauren and I are hoping to see Bunratty Castle (but not attend the medieval dinner) and the Rock of Cashel.
Irish food: To my disappointment, frying seems to be a common theme of Irish cuisine. Fried fish with fried chips. Lots of fried fries, etc. Assume it’s fried unless otherwise indicated. Our meals are usually budgeted to <10€, so we haven’t had the finer foods, mainly just fast food. Fried fatty fast food.
Irish Hostels: Overall, hostelling has been successful. Top favorites so far are Rainbow Hostel (Dingle), Killarney Railroad Hostel, and Rainbow Hostel (Doolin). Top rated hostels usually have nice, accommodating common areas. Some have light breakfasts (cereal, milk, toast), but it’s also very easy and cheap to buy cereal and breakfast. Cooking (usually pasta) is a great, simple, cheap alternative to the fried fatty fast food. The best so far has been the Bailey’s cheese cake at Danny Mac’s in Lahinch.
Beer: Guinness is good, but the first sip is a bit bitter. After that, the rest is good. Baulmer’s cider is good, not overly sweet like other ciders. Still need to try Smithwick’s (don’t pronounce the W). I’m surprised to see Budweiser in the pubs—suspected that no Irishman would order it. But not the case. Upon asking, the waitress at MacDermott’s pub (Doolin) told us that a lot of the younger Irish (20s) order Budweiser; it’s a lot easier to drink a lot of as opposed to Guinness.
Tea: I’ve taken a liking to tea, but only from a pot. It does warm you up, typically when we’re “sitting in” from the rain. But no individual cup of tea for me. And not a lot of sugar (Dad and Lauren add a lot.) I also could appreciate the subtle caffeination of tea, after about 7-10 cups last night before bed.
Remaining days: Dad and I have argued multiple proposals of what to do/where to go for our remaining week in Ireland. I’m of the philosophy that we should have a plan, be doing something rather than waste time sitting around because we don’t have a plan. Dad likes the philosophy of loose planning. The debate right now is how to get to Galway and its Saturday market. But at least now Galway and the Connemare (we’ll rent a car) are in the PLAN. Just have to be back to Shannon by Wednesday night.
My left knee: It’s been inflamed for the last week or so, probably tendonitis or early way onset arthritis. Anti-inflammatories seem to help. I’m expecting it’ll go away after all this biking.
This computer: For a computer/laptop only 4 years old, it sure seems to have degraded a lot. The battery can support the computer only for 50min (it says 50min is the max, but I think it can be longer, especially when the wireless is turned off). The B key is a bit disconnected but (obviously works). The trackpad had also been finicky—won’t recognize finger movement. But if it’s plugged into a power source and has a mouse (can be wireless), it should function adequately. At least adequately for Dad (probably the new owner, I’ll see how much I can get for it, probably no more than $250).
Things Lauren and I have to do before leaving: Generally, we want to digest things. Like Irish Coffee and Bailey’s Coffee. One of the guide books described a “banoffee”, a combination of banana and coffee. Drink Smithwick’s. Go to a large Saturday market (Galway or Limerick). See Bunratty and Rock of Cashel. No hope on Dublin. A small accomplishable list for our last week.
Location: Doolin to Corofin
Event of the Day: no ATM
Accomadation: Corofin Village Hostel
Cribbage: even w/Lauren, still way ahead of Dad (but he almost skunked Lauren and I in 3-hand cribbage)
A very “uhh” day—not much excitement. We had a very short bike from Doolin to Lisdovarna (5km), Lisdovarna to Kilforna (8km), and Kilforna to Corofin (13km). Somewhat hilly. More tiring than biking was seeing the Burren Centre exhibit and film. No sights of the real Burren yet.
Reme,ber Dad telling us we’d go to an Ireland so rural that they wouldn’t have ATMs? So forget internet? Well, we do have a wireless connection here at the hostel. But there isn’t an ATM. And Dad’s low on cash. The nearest ATM is in Ennis or maybe, maybe Ballybunnion.
Another day without rain while biking. Success. (Rained a lot after arriving and all night. Bits of sympathy for the campers outside…).
Concerning…
Irish traffic: Overall, drivers have been generally courteous about being patient and giving us space when passing. I still think someone’s going to get hit. I have gotten used to biking on the left side. We are debating the origins of driving on the left/right hand sides of the road.
Irish roads: Like I mentioned earlier, roads that aren’t city, regional, or national roads aren’t numbered or marked. Makes navigating rather difficult (especially for Dad). These roads also tend to be steeper than the regional and national roads.
Irish traffic circles: Ireland has started using “mini” traffic circles at what is just an irregular intersection (usually can ride through). These traffic circles however, contrary to convention, are just painted circles in the road. I don’t like this; the government skimping out on decorating.
Irish road signs: The road signs are generally clear and intuitive, but what I find peculiar is the written instructions on the road. When approaching a sharp bend or junction, in elongated text, is the word “SLOW”. If it’s a really sharp bend or dangerous junction, then “SLOWER” or “VERY SLOW” appears. Sometimes all three. There are also “Dangerous Accident Blackspot” areas.
Irish castles: Ireland has a lot of castles leftover. We see partial remnants all over the place. The best tour so far has been the partial castle in Listowel—very informative. For example, a threshold was a ledge in the doorway to “hold” the hay (“thresh”) that was in the room for soldiers to sleep on. Clockwise wrapped stairs were advantageous because the soldier coming down could easily use his sword in his right hand whereas the invading enemy coming up was forced to use his left hand. I didn’t realize how many castles in Ireland there were till I saw a poster of about 20-30 intact castles here at the Corofin Village Hostel. Lauren and I are hoping to see Bunratty Castle (but not attend the medieval dinner) and the Rock of Cashel.
Irish food: To my disappointment, frying seems to be a common theme of Irish cuisine. Fried fish with fried chips. Lots of fried fries, etc. Assume it’s fried unless otherwise indicated. Our meals are usually budgeted to <10€, so we haven’t had the finer foods, mainly just fast food. Fried fatty fast food.
Irish Hostels: Overall, hostelling has been successful. Top favorites so far are Rainbow Hostel (Dingle), Killarney Railroad Hostel, and Rainbow Hostel (Doolin). Top rated hostels usually have nice, accommodating common areas. Some have light breakfasts (cereal, milk, toast), but it’s also very easy and cheap to buy cereal and breakfast. Cooking (usually pasta) is a great, simple, cheap alternative to the fried fatty fast food. The best so far has been the Bailey’s cheese cake at Danny Mac’s in Lahinch.
Beer: Guinness is good, but the first sip is a bit bitter. After that, the rest is good. Baulmer’s cider is good, not overly sweet like other ciders. Still need to try Smithwick’s (don’t pronounce the W). I’m surprised to see Budweiser in the pubs—suspected that no Irishman would order it. But not the case. Upon asking, the waitress at MacDermott’s pub (Doolin) told us that a lot of the younger Irish (20s) order Budweiser; it’s a lot easier to drink a lot of as opposed to Guinness.
Tea: I’ve taken a liking to tea, but only from a pot. It does warm you up, typically when we’re “sitting in” from the rain. But no individual cup of tea for me. And not a lot of sugar (Dad and Lauren add a lot.) I also could appreciate the subtle caffeination of tea, after about 7-10 cups last night before bed.
Remaining days: Dad and I have argued multiple proposals of what to do/where to go for our remaining week in Ireland. I’m of the philosophy that we should have a plan, be doing something rather than waste time sitting around because we don’t have a plan. Dad likes the philosophy of loose planning. The debate right now is how to get to Galway and its Saturday market. But at least now Galway and the Connemare (we’ll rent a car) are in the PLAN. Just have to be back to Shannon by Wednesday night.
My left knee: It’s been inflamed for the last week or so, probably tendonitis or early way onset arthritis. Anti-inflammatories seem to help. I’m expecting it’ll go away after all this biking.
This computer: For a computer/laptop only 4 years old, it sure seems to have degraded a lot. The battery can support the computer only for 50min (it says 50min is the max, but I think it can be longer, especially when the wireless is turned off). The B key is a bit disconnected but (obviously works). The trackpad had also been finicky—won’t recognize finger movement. But if it’s plugged into a power source and has a mouse (can be wireless), it should function adequately. At least adequately for Dad (probably the new owner, I’ll see how much I can get for it, probably no more than $250).
Things Lauren and I have to do before leaving: Generally, we want to digest things. Like Irish Coffee and Bailey’s Coffee. One of the guide books described a “banoffee”, a combination of banana and coffee. Drink Smithwick’s. Go to a large Saturday market (Galway or Limerick). See Bunratty and Rock of Cashel. No hope on Dublin. A small accomplishable list for our last week.
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
More Internet in Doolin
=more blogs online
Day 7 – 10/06/09 – 10 June, 2009
Everone is still tired and cold from the slough from Dingle to Killarney in the rain. The girls are taking a bus tour of the ring of Kerry while I ride on my own without the panniers. Lauren is need of pants so we spend 5 minutes at the outlet mall across the street from the hostel shopping. She can’t find anything within that time frame so off we go to make the 10AM bus pickup. After AC and LB depart I get onmy gear and head out of town up to Molls’ Gap on N22. A sign indicates that there is a low clearance tunnel 8 km ahead, the climbing is steady and mild – able to stay in my large chainring – great scenes of a llake floored valley to my right and mountains on my left. After the short 50m tunnel the climpingsteepens and I have to shift inot the small chainring. The traffic is very light in both directions and cars only have a brief delaywhen passing me. Stopped at the Lady’s View for a good picture downward into the valley. I understand the AC and LB tour bus made its last rest stop there. Shortly after that the climb lessens and even occasionally flattens out as it approaches Molls Gap. At the gap I don’t stop and begin my descent in to Kenmare. The first 3 km are mountainous – narrow, twisting following mountain side and with a dropoff on my right. The last 7 km are thru farms – wider straighter = faster. Turn around after a brief chat with some local and return the same way to Molls Gap in under 27 minutes. Brief snack break and then its off on the funest, scareiest descent I have ever been on. the road is .9 of a single lane with sharp pop ups, drops and 0 radius turns, throw in some gravel, the rare but possible oncoming car and you get tired forearms from heavy braking. The road descends 16km into black valley where it begins to ascend again as it climbs to the Gap of Dunloe. Either this was very steep or I was bonking cause I was just climbing up the gap. the descent of the gap of dunloe is just as tricky as the descent into the Black valley but now there is the addition of a sprinkle of rain to deal with, more traffic – walkers, cars, horse drawn carriages, to deal and horse manure sprinkled across the single lane. More fun – less braking. the rain stays light and ends bythe time I get on N 71 into Killarney. I end the day with a quick shopping trip to Tesco for food and chain lube. the girls fix a pasta dinner and we bemoan the losing of the deck of cards.
Card Update: AC and LB gave me a deck of Irish picture playing cards so cribbage has return. I won the first 3 way game and Alicia the second. I am still dropping points to be claimed by the ever vigilant AC and LB. Aaaagggghhhh.
Date: 11 June 2009
Location: Killarney to Abbeyfeale
Event of the day: NO RAIN!!
Accommodation: Jack O’Rourke’s Bar Accommodation
Cribbage: we lost the cards, no change except that I skunked Dad
Left Killarney to pursue Dad’s plans for the next week: back up to Clare to loop around the peninsula, see the Burren and Doolin. Lauren and I have been pushing to see the Rock of Cashel, which is out of the way.
Dad conceded to the possibility of renting a car at the end of the week during our day off (1 day off bikes/week).
Dad again proved his lack of navigational skills. It took several attempts to find the unnamed* yellow road out of Killarney, but then followed Dad of it to an intersection with a primary national road. I correctly identified our location on the map and the correct direction, but Dad didn’t share m confidence and had to verify route with a local.
The yellow roads on the map aren’t numbered at all. The only way to identify the road is by intersections and road signs to towns. (National primary, national secondary, and regional roads are all numbered.)
We made an uneventful arrival in the untouristic town of Abbeyfeale. Only 2 B&B’s listed online, a hotel on the main street, and a bar with an “accommodations en suite” sign. The bar was the cheapest: got our own room with shower and small breakfast.
Lauren and I had our first Irish meal pies last night: chicken & mushroom (me) and beef & Guinness (Lauren). Hers was better.
I notice that we’re all eating and sleeping a lot. 10hrs of sleep each night, breakfast (>1 bowl of cereal), bike, lunch, bike, snack (or pot of tea if it’s cold/wet), bike, snack & find room, nap, dinner, relax for a couple hours, snack, early to bed.
And as I said before, no rain! A dry day.
Lost: deck of cards
June 12, 2009 Abbeyfeale, Ireland
Time: 10:15 AM
On June 10 Alicia and I went on a bus tour around the Ring of Kerry. It was a nice break from the bikes. I took a nap at some point. The trip was relaxing with big comfortable seats and amazing views of Ireland’s highest peaks.
Alicia took a pluthara of photos. The dominant color in all the photos is most likely green or some shade of green.
The bus trip was not that exciting due to the fact that we followed five other buses and each stop was loaded with people taking pictures. The most interesting or fun part of the short trip was the stop in Waterville where Charlie Chapman lived for awhile once exiled from the USA. Plus, the beach there was picturesque with rocks lying everywhere. I skipped a few stones into the Alantic Ocean.
So, Alicia and I returned back to the hostel and had dinner. I played Alicia once again and beat her at least two more times. Ha. ha. But, Dad and Alicia have now lost the cards. Gr.
Saturday 13 of June, 2009
Another day where warm beds overwhelm the three sleepyheads. alicia gets up first and heads downstairs for breakfast of Kellogg’s Start 7 whole grain cereal and light milk. Start cereal is like Honey Nut Cheerios except this is not solely oat based but is made up primarily of whole wheat, maize, and whole barley shaped into clover like rings. Minutes later I am up and I open the curtains to let the light in knowing that this will arisee Lauren. As is there usual routine they head back to bed post breakfast and I straighten out our last night B&B reservation. I inasverively made it for the 25th the day of departure the the 24th the day/night prior to departure. It took 5 minutes to clear up at the IT board lacated next to Katie O’Connor’s hostel. I also check the likelihood of catching the boat to scattery Island. Though the island visiting tourist catch is small today there is enough for the captain to make a visit to the island. The boat will leave at 2:15. alicia and I decidde to get a 2+ hour bike ride in and head off towards Loop Head. We made to Carraought before turning back to Kilrush via Kilkee. On the return the winds are at our backs aiding the effort to get back in time to change and catch the boat.
Scatterry Island has a well preserved round tower – nearly unique in Ireland since it has a access opening at ground level – thus allowing one to view the inside of the tower. 4 foot thick walls and a height of 26 meters (= over 4 stories). the rains start in an on and/off pattern that continue through the rest of the day. We visit the rest of the ruins on the now uninhabited island and after returning to Kilrush partake in a Supervalu meal of bread and soup.
N: national, nocturnal, nattering, Neverland, Notorious, Nameless, Negotiating, needy, Nefarious, Necrotic
O: office, order, organization, Offal, Other, Outrageous, Oust, Ordinary, Onery, Offhand
L: League, Learning, Liebatious, Likeable, Lovable, Liable, Leering, Lethargic
A: Athletes, Attorneys, Autocrats, Artisans, Aristocrats, Adagio, Atheist
Date: 15 June 2009, writing for 14 June
Location: Kilrush
Event of the day: Scattery Island
Accommodation: Katie O’Connor’s Hostel
Cribbage: still way ahead on Dad, Lauren 1 up on me
Yesterday, for unsaid medical reasons, we stayed an extra day in Kilrush. Dad and I attempted the Dolphin Head Cycle way along the peninsula, but were slowed down by the wind; we made it to Craighholt, but had to head back to make 2pm boat ride to Scattery…..Lauren stayed in Kilrush to tour bookshop, buy food at the SuperValu, and eat a whole can of Texas BBQ Pringles (in Texas, it’d just be BBQ) for lunch.
Thus, our main tourist event was the trip out to Scattery Island, which, until the late 70s, was inhabited by a small population (~11 houses). In chronological order, first was the monastic tower (5th/6th century), several churches (6th, 9th?, and 12th centuries), St Senan’s well, St Senan’s bed (who rid the island of the dragon/monster and cursed any woman that crossed his grave to be barren), and the abandoned village (government forced inhabitants off). Quite a wet tour, the rain was off and on…. The captain of the boat that took us tourists (us 3 + 8) to the island was born on island (on of the few remaining).
To get to the island, the boat had to go through a lock to keep the bay water level higher than the Shannon River. We would debate where the Shannon River begins, as they (the Irish) call the river what we would call the bay: it’s not freshwater, it’s really wide, and it’s subject to the tide.
And we’re all ravenous. I tried to convince Dad to buy the larger loaf of sliced bread, but refused and brought the smaller loaf, which we all easily finished for dinner (bread with soap). He went back to buy more bread for Sunday’s lunch.
Dad snores. Loudly.
Date: 15 June 2009, writing for today
Location: Kilrush to Doolin
Event of the Day: Cliffs of Moher
Accomadation: Rainbow Hostel, Doolin
Overall, very good day. Mainly determined by the fact that we successfully avoided the rain and stayed DRY (= happy Alicia).
Started out from Kilrush earlier than normal at 10:20am, rather than the later 11ish o’clock to avoid the rain. Today we could see the rain coming—I was rather concerned with our progress against the oncoming ominous cloud. Stood in first in a doorway in Quilty, known for its rescue of 22 French sailors caught by a storm in the bay. Next, got 2 pots of tea and a Bailey’s cheesecake (very good + belle presentation) at Danny Mac’s in Lahinch. And a free pot of tea from neighbor at the bar who had changed his mind.
Next, the Cliffs of Moher! aka the Cliffs of Insanity from the Princess Bride. According to Old Man Willie, tourism has had its impact on the cliffs since his last visit in the 80s: the edge of the cliffs were barricaded. Old Man Willie indicated the spot where he had thrown soda cans into the Moher wind. Trespassing on either side was in effect. O’Brian’s Tower on the south side looked extremely fake, but proved to be real.
We seem to have trouble finding hostels; stopping to ask directions a couple hundred meters from the hostel. Rainbow Hostel here in Doolin is really nice...new furniture, nice common areas, laundry for only 3€, dorm rooms for 2 nights 90€ total…Dorm rooms to get away from Dad’s snoring. Expect to sleep well tonight.
June 15, 2009 Doolin, Ireland
Time: 10:44PM
Ok, so here’s the day. Sun came up in the east and set in the west. Dad went on some long ardous bike ride through the hills while Alicia and I lazily coasted through the Aran Island getting lost, hot and tired.
Though, that’s not the story entirely. Alicia and I went down to the ferry to purchase round trip tickets to the Aran Island. Of course, we planned to bike around the island. The ferry was breezy and rolling with the waves.
The island itself consisted almost entirely of either stone or grass. And, of course, filled with those hills that bicyclists love. Not as many pictures were taken due to the fact that Alicia camera has battery difficulties.
One interesting site was a Dunerg fort. This fort is surrounded by several stone walls near the edge of a cliff and situated at the top of a hill. So, we walked quickly up and examined a fort that has stood for centuries against erosion and human interference.
This cliff edge was more scenic sine we could actually go to the edge. I looked down to the crashing waves and was filled with a sense of wonder, awesomeness, and slight vertigo.
I’m tired so, the story will stay short. Alicia and I biked some more and came back on the ferry
AND, we FINALLY had a pint of Guiness beer. Took long enough.
And I seem to not be winning at cribbage. This needs to be remedied.
Day 7 – 10/06/09 – 10 June, 2009
Everone is still tired and cold from the slough from Dingle to Killarney in the rain. The girls are taking a bus tour of the ring of Kerry while I ride on my own without the panniers. Lauren is need of pants so we spend 5 minutes at the outlet mall across the street from the hostel shopping. She can’t find anything within that time frame so off we go to make the 10AM bus pickup. After AC and LB depart I get onmy gear and head out of town up to Molls’ Gap on N22. A sign indicates that there is a low clearance tunnel 8 km ahead, the climbing is steady and mild – able to stay in my large chainring – great scenes of a llake floored valley to my right and mountains on my left. After the short 50m tunnel the climpingsteepens and I have to shift inot the small chainring. The traffic is very light in both directions and cars only have a brief delaywhen passing me. Stopped at the Lady’s View for a good picture downward into the valley. I understand the AC and LB tour bus made its last rest stop there. Shortly after that the climb lessens and even occasionally flattens out as it approaches Molls Gap. At the gap I don’t stop and begin my descent in to Kenmare. The first 3 km are mountainous – narrow, twisting following mountain side and with a dropoff on my right. The last 7 km are thru farms – wider straighter = faster. Turn around after a brief chat with some local and return the same way to Molls Gap in under 27 minutes. Brief snack break and then its off on the funest, scareiest descent I have ever been on. the road is .9 of a single lane with sharp pop ups, drops and 0 radius turns, throw in some gravel, the rare but possible oncoming car and you get tired forearms from heavy braking. The road descends 16km into black valley where it begins to ascend again as it climbs to the Gap of Dunloe. Either this was very steep or I was bonking cause I was just climbing up the gap. the descent of the gap of dunloe is just as tricky as the descent into the Black valley but now there is the addition of a sprinkle of rain to deal with, more traffic – walkers, cars, horse drawn carriages, to deal and horse manure sprinkled across the single lane. More fun – less braking. the rain stays light and ends bythe time I get on N 71 into Killarney. I end the day with a quick shopping trip to Tesco for food and chain lube. the girls fix a pasta dinner and we bemoan the losing of the deck of cards.
Card Update: AC and LB gave me a deck of Irish picture playing cards so cribbage has return. I won the first 3 way game and Alicia the second. I am still dropping points to be claimed by the ever vigilant AC and LB. Aaaagggghhhh.
Date: 11 June 2009
Location: Killarney to Abbeyfeale
Event of the day: NO RAIN!!
Accommodation: Jack O’Rourke’s Bar Accommodation
Cribbage: we lost the cards, no change except that I skunked Dad
Left Killarney to pursue Dad’s plans for the next week: back up to Clare to loop around the peninsula, see the Burren and Doolin. Lauren and I have been pushing to see the Rock of Cashel, which is out of the way.
Dad conceded to the possibility of renting a car at the end of the week during our day off (1 day off bikes/week).
Dad again proved his lack of navigational skills. It took several attempts to find the unnamed* yellow road out of Killarney, but then followed Dad of it to an intersection with a primary national road. I correctly identified our location on the map and the correct direction, but Dad didn’t share m confidence and had to verify route with a local.
The yellow roads on the map aren’t numbered at all. The only way to identify the road is by intersections and road signs to towns. (National primary, national secondary, and regional roads are all numbered.)
We made an uneventful arrival in the untouristic town of Abbeyfeale. Only 2 B&B’s listed online, a hotel on the main street, and a bar with an “accommodations en suite” sign. The bar was the cheapest: got our own room with shower and small breakfast.
Lauren and I had our first Irish meal pies last night: chicken & mushroom (me) and beef & Guinness (Lauren). Hers was better.
I notice that we’re all eating and sleeping a lot. 10hrs of sleep each night, breakfast (>1 bowl of cereal), bike, lunch, bike, snack (or pot of tea if it’s cold/wet), bike, snack & find room, nap, dinner, relax for a couple hours, snack, early to bed.
And as I said before, no rain! A dry day.
Lost: deck of cards
June 12, 2009 Abbeyfeale, Ireland
Time: 10:15 AM
On June 10 Alicia and I went on a bus tour around the Ring of Kerry. It was a nice break from the bikes. I took a nap at some point. The trip was relaxing with big comfortable seats and amazing views of Ireland’s highest peaks.
Alicia took a pluthara of photos. The dominant color in all the photos is most likely green or some shade of green.
The bus trip was not that exciting due to the fact that we followed five other buses and each stop was loaded with people taking pictures. The most interesting or fun part of the short trip was the stop in Waterville where Charlie Chapman lived for awhile once exiled from the USA. Plus, the beach there was picturesque with rocks lying everywhere. I skipped a few stones into the Alantic Ocean.
So, Alicia and I returned back to the hostel and had dinner. I played Alicia once again and beat her at least two more times. Ha. ha. But, Dad and Alicia have now lost the cards. Gr.
Saturday 13 of June, 2009
Another day where warm beds overwhelm the three sleepyheads. alicia gets up first and heads downstairs for breakfast of Kellogg’s Start 7 whole grain cereal and light milk. Start cereal is like Honey Nut Cheerios except this is not solely oat based but is made up primarily of whole wheat, maize, and whole barley shaped into clover like rings. Minutes later I am up and I open the curtains to let the light in knowing that this will arisee Lauren. As is there usual routine they head back to bed post breakfast and I straighten out our last night B&B reservation. I inasverively made it for the 25th the day of departure the the 24th the day/night prior to departure. It took 5 minutes to clear up at the IT board lacated next to Katie O’Connor’s hostel. I also check the likelihood of catching the boat to scattery Island. Though the island visiting tourist catch is small today there is enough for the captain to make a visit to the island. The boat will leave at 2:15. alicia and I decidde to get a 2+ hour bike ride in and head off towards Loop Head. We made to Carraought before turning back to Kilrush via Kilkee. On the return the winds are at our backs aiding the effort to get back in time to change and catch the boat.
Scatterry Island has a well preserved round tower – nearly unique in Ireland since it has a access opening at ground level – thus allowing one to view the inside of the tower. 4 foot thick walls and a height of 26 meters (= over 4 stories). the rains start in an on and/off pattern that continue through the rest of the day. We visit the rest of the ruins on the now uninhabited island and after returning to Kilrush partake in a Supervalu meal of bread and soup.
N: national, nocturnal, nattering, Neverland, Notorious, Nameless, Negotiating, needy, Nefarious, Necrotic
O: office, order, organization, Offal, Other, Outrageous, Oust, Ordinary, Onery, Offhand
L: League, Learning, Liebatious, Likeable, Lovable, Liable, Leering, Lethargic
A: Athletes, Attorneys, Autocrats, Artisans, Aristocrats, Adagio, Atheist
Date: 15 June 2009, writing for 14 June
Location: Kilrush
Event of the day: Scattery Island
Accommodation: Katie O’Connor’s Hostel
Cribbage: still way ahead on Dad, Lauren 1 up on me
Yesterday, for unsaid medical reasons, we stayed an extra day in Kilrush. Dad and I attempted the Dolphin Head Cycle way along the peninsula, but were slowed down by the wind; we made it to Craighholt, but had to head back to make 2pm boat ride to Scattery…..Lauren stayed in Kilrush to tour bookshop, buy food at the SuperValu, and eat a whole can of Texas BBQ Pringles (in Texas, it’d just be BBQ) for lunch.
Thus, our main tourist event was the trip out to Scattery Island, which, until the late 70s, was inhabited by a small population (~11 houses). In chronological order, first was the monastic tower (5th/6th century), several churches (6th, 9th?, and 12th centuries), St Senan’s well, St Senan’s bed (who rid the island of the dragon/monster and cursed any woman that crossed his grave to be barren), and the abandoned village (government forced inhabitants off). Quite a wet tour, the rain was off and on…. The captain of the boat that took us tourists (us 3 + 8) to the island was born on island (on of the few remaining).
To get to the island, the boat had to go through a lock to keep the bay water level higher than the Shannon River. We would debate where the Shannon River begins, as they (the Irish) call the river what we would call the bay: it’s not freshwater, it’s really wide, and it’s subject to the tide.
And we’re all ravenous. I tried to convince Dad to buy the larger loaf of sliced bread, but refused and brought the smaller loaf, which we all easily finished for dinner (bread with soap). He went back to buy more bread for Sunday’s lunch.
Dad snores. Loudly.
Date: 15 June 2009, writing for today
Location: Kilrush to Doolin
Event of the Day: Cliffs of Moher
Accomadation: Rainbow Hostel, Doolin
Overall, very good day. Mainly determined by the fact that we successfully avoided the rain and stayed DRY (= happy Alicia).
Started out from Kilrush earlier than normal at 10:20am, rather than the later 11ish o’clock to avoid the rain. Today we could see the rain coming—I was rather concerned with our progress against the oncoming ominous cloud. Stood in first in a doorway in Quilty, known for its rescue of 22 French sailors caught by a storm in the bay. Next, got 2 pots of tea and a Bailey’s cheesecake (very good + belle presentation) at Danny Mac’s in Lahinch. And a free pot of tea from neighbor at the bar who had changed his mind.
Next, the Cliffs of Moher! aka the Cliffs of Insanity from the Princess Bride. According to Old Man Willie, tourism has had its impact on the cliffs since his last visit in the 80s: the edge of the cliffs were barricaded. Old Man Willie indicated the spot where he had thrown soda cans into the Moher wind. Trespassing on either side was in effect. O’Brian’s Tower on the south side looked extremely fake, but proved to be real.
We seem to have trouble finding hostels; stopping to ask directions a couple hundred meters from the hostel. Rainbow Hostel here in Doolin is really nice...new furniture, nice common areas, laundry for only 3€, dorm rooms for 2 nights 90€ total…Dorm rooms to get away from Dad’s snoring. Expect to sleep well tonight.
June 15, 2009 Doolin, Ireland
Time: 10:44PM
Ok, so here’s the day. Sun came up in the east and set in the west. Dad went on some long ardous bike ride through the hills while Alicia and I lazily coasted through the Aran Island getting lost, hot and tired.
Though, that’s not the story entirely. Alicia and I went down to the ferry to purchase round trip tickets to the Aran Island. Of course, we planned to bike around the island. The ferry was breezy and rolling with the waves.
The island itself consisted almost entirely of either stone or grass. And, of course, filled with those hills that bicyclists love. Not as many pictures were taken due to the fact that Alicia camera has battery difficulties.
One interesting site was a Dunerg fort. This fort is surrounded by several stone walls near the edge of a cliff and situated at the top of a hill. So, we walked quickly up and examined a fort that has stood for centuries against erosion and human interference.
This cliff edge was more scenic sine we could actually go to the edge. I looked down to the crashing waves and was filled with a sense of wonder, awesomeness, and slight vertigo.
I’m tired so, the story will stay short. Alicia and I biked some more and came back on the ferry
AND, we FINALLY had a pint of Guiness beer. Took long enough.
And I seem to not be winning at cribbage. This needs to be remedied.
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
The first posts (late)
Date: (yesterday) 05 June 2009
Location: in transit / Shannon / Ennis
Event of the (yester)day: arriving
B&B: Glencove in Clarecastle
Cribbage: Alicia 4-1, Lauren 1-1, Dad 1-3
Our traveling begun yesterday at 8:30am central time. 1.5hrs to IAH, negligible check-in & security, 2.5hrs waiting at IAH, 1.5hrs waiting on run-way, 3.5hrs in air Houston to Newark, 15min speedwalking to gate at Newark, 7hrs in air Newark to Shannon, 2.5hrs constructing bikes, 45min looking for bolt dropped in grass (did not find)….. equals about 20 hours. Also spent time deciding what to do with bike boxes; solution: ditch original boxes and buy new boxes (15E) from Continental ticket counter.
Dad had NOT reserved B&B, but targeted B&B did have room. Only a 12km bike ride if Dad had not gotten lost 5 times (did not know how to read round-about signs). And biking on the left side of the road is weird. Argued about the British rationale for such. I do not believe Lauren or Dad’s hypothesized guesses (no supporting evidence.) Biking with panniers much harder than normal. I suspect that Dad and Lauren’s bikes are carrying more weight than mine (body + panier weight) as I have to cycle to keep up with them when I coast downhill.
Weather is much nicer than normal—sun all day! Biking in t-shirts is comfortable. Supposed to stay sunny today, meaning sunscreen.
Traditional Irish breakfast (egg sunny side up, sausage, ham, ham sausage, blood sausage, tomato) is WAY too heavy. To much meat. I was disappointed by the lack of potatoes. Am digesting while writing this blog à la Office Creed style (word document). If we find free wireless internet, will create an actual factual blog.
Translation notes: first sounds like fourth, brown soda is wheat bread made with baking soda NOT coca-cola or pepsi or dr. pepper soda
Lost: black bolt for Lauren’s bike (see above)
June 6, 2009 Tarbert, Ireland written by LA
Time: too early
Yesterday started as many days do. The sun came up and I did not want to wake up. The bed was perfectly warm. Unlike traditional Irish weather, the sun was awake and warmly smiling.
The group went downstairs to enjoy a traditional Irish breakfast. The breakfast included eggs, sausage, blood pudding (I think, or some dark bread and nut thing), some other meat, ham, toast, tea, a bowl of cornflakes and brown soda bread. I did not really eat the meat, except the ham, of course. Then, we headed back upstairs to repack and get ready to pack. I was not ready. I needed more sleep. So, I went back upstairs to our room and snuggled into the warm bed. Everyone else was writing or packing.
Eventually we were all packed and ready to bike the day away. I took a picture of the bikes with the B&B to record our travels. Dad took a picture of Alicia and I with our hostess and vice versa.
Then, we all hopped onto our bikes and rode into away from the rising sun since we were heading west. Our goal was to reach Tarbert by going through Kilmier and taking the ferry. We had a short lunch break at Labeesheeda known as “The Bed of Silk” because of a legend of an English sailor stopping in the bay during a storm who slept through the storm as if sleeping on a bed of silk. On the bike ride to this small village, Alicia had several problems with her bike. First, her panier got stuck in the gear and then, her gear shifter wouldn’t work. Alicia wins the Delay Award.
Around 2PM we reached the ferry. The ferry was an enjoyable break from biking which lasted about 20 minutes. After that, Tarbert was only a five minute bike ride away. We decided to the local woodland walk. We started and then found out it was closed. We went back to the bikes and had a short nap. Then, we decided to take the other woodland route. Or what we thought was the woodland route. It was a muddy woody path, Both Alicia and Dad got their shoes muddy while I stayed nice and clean. Eventually we found the real woodland walk, and followed the path a short while, but stopped because grouchy Alicia was mad from getting her clean shoes muddied. Because I am tired of writing, I don’t feel motivated to tell you about the rest of the evening. We had dinner and went to bed. the end.
Mutiny during the Chaos Tour.
Day 3 – The girls are tired and sleeping long hours. After a breakfast a fruit, scones and OJ gotten from the local Spar market, we started out at 10:30 and were immediately delayed by the threat of rain. So we stood in at the ferry house Hostel for 15 -20 minutes. Assuming my rightful place as tour director I lead the group of vagabond cyclist out of Tarbert on N18 with the intention of picking up the more quiet road we had agreed to bike in 1-2 km. After 3 – 4 km, AC calls for a halt and wanted to head back into tarbert to get on the right road. I vetoed and said we could take the small country road to ballylongtrowel. After 150km the road turn turned to gravel and a quick turnaround. Then the rain hit and Lauren yelled “ Dad, you are not leading any more.” and the mutiny was iniated and I was relieved of any tour guiding/route selection duties. Now I only function as mechanic and tour sponsor. I did show them the benefit of standing in out of the rain and in 20’ we were back on our way under clearing skies. After 17 km were we in Listrowel and enjoyed a pleasant lunch and some mild sightseeing and we headed off to finish the final leg of today’s biking with the 27Km into Tralee. The skies were threatening but held off until were we 2 km outside of town. AC was experiencing a bit of o upset stomach. I needed to push on since I had broken a rear drive side spoke and needed to get to a bike shop before they closed for the weekend. I headed of alone and gingerly coasted the 2 km descent in tralee while AC and LB waited till AC felt OK. We meet at the Finnegan’s Hostel and I then seet out for the bike shop. 10 euros later the spoke was replaced and the wheel trued and headed back to the hostel and found the girls asleep. Mutiny #2 will likely occur tomorrow because their growing dissatisfaction with my dining selections.
June 9, 2009 Dingle, Ireland
Time: 9:12 AM
The day started began like most days. The sun rose in the sky and we groaned in our beds. Eventually, the hunger in my belly sent me to the kitchen scavenging for some cornflakes. Of course, I went through my daily medical routine….
Our plan for the day of tourism was to cycle around the Dingle Peninsula. Its about 30 miles long with sloping hills and breathtaking views. Our first stop was to see the Dunbeg Fort, a prehistoric fort dating back about 3000 years. There was some disagreement about whether to see it or not since there was a light drizzle. Alicia and I decided to go down and examine the ruins. The fort itself was built of stone and had several layers of walls surrounding it. I was amazed all the stone had not eroded because of all the water and wind. The fort was situated near the end of a high cliff, thus providing the necessary protection back in the ancient times.
The rain stopped while we munched on some chocolate sandwhiches. Ironically, once ready to go, the rain began again and harder. We trudged on through till we sighted a nice café. In the homely, warm café, we ordered a pot of tea while “standing in.” Then, one pot of tea became two. Then, two became the exit out of the café.
We hopped back onto the bikes. My butt gave another whimper and begged for another stop for a pot of tea. Nonetheless, I biked on. We found a outcropping of rocks. I felt like a goat climbing all over the rocks. On top of the rocks, I had a great view of he peninsula and the ocean. Plus, it was realllly windy up on the rocks.
So, we biked, biked, biked, cycled, and biked till we reached a fork in the road. One back to Dingle, and one to the Glassurs Oratory. We took the path more traveled and headed off to the oratory. We watched a short video on the ancient church and finally caught a break. The weather decided to rain again while we in warm shelter.
Then, my butt protested again as we climbed back up the hill and down to Dingle. There we had HOT showers and a WARM meal. And, I won 2 cribbage games against Alicia. Ha. ha.
Date: 09 June 2009, writing for 07 June (day 4)
Location: Tralee to Dingle
Event of the day: Connair Pass
B&B/Hostel: Rainbow Hostel in Dingle
Cribbage: Lauren’s 3 up on me, I’m >5 up on Dad
We left Finnigan’s Hostel in Tralee latish in the morning. Lauren and I are getting into a schedule of eating breakfast, then going back under the covers to get warm, and subsequently falling asleep. Biked along the northern part of the peninsula and stopped at Castlegregory for lunch.
Sandwiches in Ireland are boring! Only cheddar cheese (I asked for Swiss, only cheddar). Too basic. And small. Not ordering any more sandwiches. Instead I got the 100% Irish Beef Quarter Pounder with the mysterious pink sauce.
From Castlegregory, onto Connair Pass! Dad estimates 12km uphill and, supposedly, a 45min descent. Up is tough. Yes, we are on the smallest gear of the smallest chain link. Dad prefers a steady and slow method, whereas I, and maybe Lauren, are better with a stop and go bursts. Alicia wins the race to the top and waits a full 15min for the others to catchup. Nice view of both sides of the peninsula, very windy, and why are people eating ice cream? Too cold, despite all the work to get up the hill. Bargained a pair of gloves for a long-sleeved underarmour shirt from Lauren. However, Alicia is the last one down the hill (riding on the brakes).
Dad still proves he is not navigator worthy as he distrusts the directions I was given for the hostel.
Rainbow hostel is slightly outside Dingle, nice room, but shared showers. And free wireless!
“Tomorrow” is the Dingle loop and chocolate spread sandwiches!
As for cribbage, I’m getting more and more frustrated by Lauren’s lead. Trying to fix that ASAP.
Translation notes: a ‘toastie’ is the equivalent of grilled cheese
Lost: a green-striped sock and a red-striped sock, both mine
Location: in transit / Shannon / Ennis
Event of the (yester)day: arriving
B&B: Glencove in Clarecastle
Cribbage: Alicia 4-1, Lauren 1-1, Dad 1-3
Our traveling begun yesterday at 8:30am central time. 1.5hrs to IAH, negligible check-in & security, 2.5hrs waiting at IAH, 1.5hrs waiting on run-way, 3.5hrs in air Houston to Newark, 15min speedwalking to gate at Newark, 7hrs in air Newark to Shannon, 2.5hrs constructing bikes, 45min looking for bolt dropped in grass (did not find)….. equals about 20 hours. Also spent time deciding what to do with bike boxes; solution: ditch original boxes and buy new boxes (15E) from Continental ticket counter.
Dad had NOT reserved B&B, but targeted B&B did have room. Only a 12km bike ride if Dad had not gotten lost 5 times (did not know how to read round-about signs). And biking on the left side of the road is weird. Argued about the British rationale for such. I do not believe Lauren or Dad’s hypothesized guesses (no supporting evidence.) Biking with panniers much harder than normal. I suspect that Dad and Lauren’s bikes are carrying more weight than mine (body + panier weight) as I have to cycle to keep up with them when I coast downhill.
Weather is much nicer than normal—sun all day! Biking in t-shirts is comfortable. Supposed to stay sunny today, meaning sunscreen.
Traditional Irish breakfast (egg sunny side up, sausage, ham, ham sausage, blood sausage, tomato) is WAY too heavy. To much meat. I was disappointed by the lack of potatoes. Am digesting while writing this blog à la Office Creed style (word document). If we find free wireless internet, will create an actual factual blog.
Translation notes: first sounds like fourth, brown soda is wheat bread made with baking soda NOT coca-cola or pepsi or dr. pepper soda
Lost: black bolt for Lauren’s bike (see above)
June 6, 2009 Tarbert, Ireland written by LA
Time: too early
Yesterday started as many days do. The sun came up and I did not want to wake up. The bed was perfectly warm. Unlike traditional Irish weather, the sun was awake and warmly smiling.
The group went downstairs to enjoy a traditional Irish breakfast. The breakfast included eggs, sausage, blood pudding (I think, or some dark bread and nut thing), some other meat, ham, toast, tea, a bowl of cornflakes and brown soda bread. I did not really eat the meat, except the ham, of course. Then, we headed back upstairs to repack and get ready to pack. I was not ready. I needed more sleep. So, I went back upstairs to our room and snuggled into the warm bed. Everyone else was writing or packing.
Eventually we were all packed and ready to bike the day away. I took a picture of the bikes with the B&B to record our travels. Dad took a picture of Alicia and I with our hostess and vice versa.
Then, we all hopped onto our bikes and rode into away from the rising sun since we were heading west. Our goal was to reach Tarbert by going through Kilmier and taking the ferry. We had a short lunch break at Labeesheeda known as “The Bed of Silk” because of a legend of an English sailor stopping in the bay during a storm who slept through the storm as if sleeping on a bed of silk. On the bike ride to this small village, Alicia had several problems with her bike. First, her panier got stuck in the gear and then, her gear shifter wouldn’t work. Alicia wins the Delay Award.
Around 2PM we reached the ferry. The ferry was an enjoyable break from biking which lasted about 20 minutes. After that, Tarbert was only a five minute bike ride away. We decided to the local woodland walk. We started and then found out it was closed. We went back to the bikes and had a short nap. Then, we decided to take the other woodland route. Or what we thought was the woodland route. It was a muddy woody path, Both Alicia and Dad got their shoes muddy while I stayed nice and clean. Eventually we found the real woodland walk, and followed the path a short while, but stopped because grouchy Alicia was mad from getting her clean shoes muddied. Because I am tired of writing, I don’t feel motivated to tell you about the rest of the evening. We had dinner and went to bed. the end.
Mutiny during the Chaos Tour.
Day 3 – The girls are tired and sleeping long hours. After a breakfast a fruit, scones and OJ gotten from the local Spar market, we started out at 10:30 and were immediately delayed by the threat of rain. So we stood in at the ferry house Hostel for 15 -20 minutes. Assuming my rightful place as tour director I lead the group of vagabond cyclist out of Tarbert on N18 with the intention of picking up the more quiet road we had agreed to bike in 1-2 km. After 3 – 4 km, AC calls for a halt and wanted to head back into tarbert to get on the right road. I vetoed and said we could take the small country road to ballylongtrowel. After 150km the road turn turned to gravel and a quick turnaround. Then the rain hit and Lauren yelled “ Dad, you are not leading any more.” and the mutiny was iniated and I was relieved of any tour guiding/route selection duties. Now I only function as mechanic and tour sponsor. I did show them the benefit of standing in out of the rain and in 20’ we were back on our way under clearing skies. After 17 km were we in Listrowel and enjoyed a pleasant lunch and some mild sightseeing and we headed off to finish the final leg of today’s biking with the 27Km into Tralee. The skies were threatening but held off until were we 2 km outside of town. AC was experiencing a bit of o upset stomach. I needed to push on since I had broken a rear drive side spoke and needed to get to a bike shop before they closed for the weekend. I headed of alone and gingerly coasted the 2 km descent in tralee while AC and LB waited till AC felt OK. We meet at the Finnegan’s Hostel and I then seet out for the bike shop. 10 euros later the spoke was replaced and the wheel trued and headed back to the hostel and found the girls asleep. Mutiny #2 will likely occur tomorrow because their growing dissatisfaction with my dining selections.
June 9, 2009 Dingle, Ireland
Time: 9:12 AM
The day started began like most days. The sun rose in the sky and we groaned in our beds. Eventually, the hunger in my belly sent me to the kitchen scavenging for some cornflakes. Of course, I went through my daily medical routine….
Our plan for the day of tourism was to cycle around the Dingle Peninsula. Its about 30 miles long with sloping hills and breathtaking views. Our first stop was to see the Dunbeg Fort, a prehistoric fort dating back about 3000 years. There was some disagreement about whether to see it or not since there was a light drizzle. Alicia and I decided to go down and examine the ruins. The fort itself was built of stone and had several layers of walls surrounding it. I was amazed all the stone had not eroded because of all the water and wind. The fort was situated near the end of a high cliff, thus providing the necessary protection back in the ancient times.
The rain stopped while we munched on some chocolate sandwhiches. Ironically, once ready to go, the rain began again and harder. We trudged on through till we sighted a nice café. In the homely, warm café, we ordered a pot of tea while “standing in.” Then, one pot of tea became two. Then, two became the exit out of the café.
We hopped back onto the bikes. My butt gave another whimper and begged for another stop for a pot of tea. Nonetheless, I biked on. We found a outcropping of rocks. I felt like a goat climbing all over the rocks. On top of the rocks, I had a great view of he peninsula and the ocean. Plus, it was realllly windy up on the rocks.
So, we biked, biked, biked, cycled, and biked till we reached a fork in the road. One back to Dingle, and one to the Glassurs Oratory. We took the path more traveled and headed off to the oratory. We watched a short video on the ancient church and finally caught a break. The weather decided to rain again while we in warm shelter.
Then, my butt protested again as we climbed back up the hill and down to Dingle. There we had HOT showers and a WARM meal. And, I won 2 cribbage games against Alicia. Ha. ha.
Date: 09 June 2009, writing for 07 June (day 4)
Location: Tralee to Dingle
Event of the day: Connair Pass
B&B/Hostel: Rainbow Hostel in Dingle
Cribbage: Lauren’s 3 up on me, I’m >5 up on Dad
We left Finnigan’s Hostel in Tralee latish in the morning. Lauren and I are getting into a schedule of eating breakfast, then going back under the covers to get warm, and subsequently falling asleep. Biked along the northern part of the peninsula and stopped at Castlegregory for lunch.
Sandwiches in Ireland are boring! Only cheddar cheese (I asked for Swiss, only cheddar). Too basic. And small. Not ordering any more sandwiches. Instead I got the 100% Irish Beef Quarter Pounder with the mysterious pink sauce.
From Castlegregory, onto Connair Pass! Dad estimates 12km uphill and, supposedly, a 45min descent. Up is tough. Yes, we are on the smallest gear of the smallest chain link. Dad prefers a steady and slow method, whereas I, and maybe Lauren, are better with a stop and go bursts. Alicia wins the race to the top and waits a full 15min for the others to catchup. Nice view of both sides of the peninsula, very windy, and why are people eating ice cream? Too cold, despite all the work to get up the hill. Bargained a pair of gloves for a long-sleeved underarmour shirt from Lauren. However, Alicia is the last one down the hill (riding on the brakes).
Dad still proves he is not navigator worthy as he distrusts the directions I was given for the hostel.
Rainbow hostel is slightly outside Dingle, nice room, but shared showers. And free wireless!
“Tomorrow” is the Dingle loop and chocolate spread sandwiches!
As for cribbage, I’m getting more and more frustrated by Lauren’s lead. Trying to fix that ASAP.
Translation notes: a ‘toastie’ is the equivalent of grilled cheese
Lost: a green-striped sock and a red-striped sock, both mine
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